Airbrushes and airbrushing...
I'm posting this under my mere mortal persona.
While attending the URRF-9 launch this past weekend, Neil expressed an interest in purchasing an airbrush. I love having an airbrush and many of you have seen the results of my uses of it (Apogee Saturn V, Green Eggs and Ham, Super Orbital Transport, etc.). An airbrush, like most any tool, does NOT guarantee results unless you understand it and know how to use it. Anyone can wield a scalpel but I'd prefer a skilled surgeon hold one if it is to be wielded for use on me!
I have always enjoyed art (FWIW, I own two Dali's, a Miró and several other artists you're likely not to know) and, in my primary school days, I used my school's art room's airbrush. Airbrushes were much more crude in the 19th century. 🤪 So, I applied most of my energies to pen and ink work. Very tedious detailed work with India ink and an old-school Koh-I-Noor Rapidograph. One of my P&I works was submitted by an art teacher for the National Scholastic Art completion. It made it to the national event held in NYC. I won a Hallmark Gold Key award (stolen 😢) and scholarship for art school. I never used the scholarship as I was much more interested in electronics engineering with hopes of getting a job with Bob Moog. Why? While I was in NYC for that art event, I happened into the Sorkin Music store where I spied the Roland SH-1000 (Roland's first synthesizer). I still own that synth. Enough on that. I'll leave the art or synth discussion for a beer talk if you're ever interested.
Back to airbrushing.
There are a number of things to consider before purchasing one. I have my Iwata brush and small compressor stored away in a Pelican®-like case (an Apache® case from Harbor Freight). Thus, it's relatively portable. I may bring it to the next launch for Neil's sake to discuss the nuances of airbrushing. One of the major considerations is cleaning the brush. The Iwata is very simple and easy to disassemble an re-assemble for cleaning; albeit, I'm not sure I'd like to do it at the field. A beer talk afterward, perhaps @Kane, would be better than risking losing small parts on the field. As a whole airbrush and JUST the airbrush, the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS I use runs about $150. As parts, it's SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive so I'd prefer not to drop something in the field grass. Another consideration is the control mechanism. Double or dual action IS THE WAY to go. Don't skimp. The feed system is also a choice. Basically, there are two systems — gravity and siphon. There are pros and cons.
I'm going to be quite busy piecing together all the video I took for Dan's and Neil's Patriot, so I don't have time to put together video or photos to discuss airbrushing here. I can/will answer questions here if you have them. Otherwise, next launch I'll have the airbrush to display and discuss.
If you want to get a head start, I found this page that has introductory info and explains some of the things I've just mentioned.
Back when I did animation (which feels like 3 lifetimes ago); I used an airbrush to make the "glows" I needed on my lazer beams and missile flames when I did my outer space movie (which is on youtube somewhere). I had a very crude setup as I never had any money back then, and I'm pretty sure I threw all that stuff away after I moved (and moved again, and again).
That said, on smaller details and smaller rockets, an airbrush would be the way to go as it's much more precise than spray paint. However, these days, the rockets I seem to be working on require more than one can of spray paint and an airbrush would take forever except in cases where I might add some finishing touches.
Oh, and Brian.... I think you meant to say 20th Century, not 19th, unless you are lying about your age, and used an airbrush during the 1800's!
I bought a cheapo setup on Amazon for around $100 (compressor, hoses, 3 airbrushes). It's nothing special, but gets the jobs I do done. The problem, or frustration, is that it came with absolutely zero paperwork or instruction. I couldn't even tell you what sizes the air brushes are. But I'm not an artist (unless b.s. artwork counts) and never will be. I'm painting rockets and parts in not much detail. But even that requires some knowledge.
I found a YouTube channel that has tons of videos, from basics (how to hold the brush) to advanced tips (how to make smoke come out of a skull type artwork). All broken down into specific video subjects. While most are beyond me, artistically speaking, some have been very helpful and all I have watched are easy to follow. If you are interested in airbrushing, I suggest you check out Poohbah's setup. I'm sure it's top shelf. But also give this channel a look: https://m.youtube.com/@AirbrushAsylum
Quote from Eric Becher on June 12, 2023, 11:58 pmBut also give this channel a look: https://m.youtube.com/@AirbrushAsylum
Wow! Thanks for that link. This guy's got a wealth of great info, especially for first-timers considering an airbrush!
In this video, discussing types and proper use of an airbrush, he's using the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS which is the airbrush I have and use.
I haven't explored enough of his video channel yet but I'm certain to find a video on cleaning, care and maintenance of the airbrush. I said previously that I like the Iwata because, for a dual-action, it's pure simplicity to take apart for cleaning.
Another video in his series explains airbrush paints. In this video, he's discussing Trident and Createx paints. I've got many Createx paints I've used.
I've not come across Trident as it may be a UK brand. I'll have to look for it. My guess is that Amazon would carry it. Createx paints are available in most hobby shops, art shops and even in Hobby Lobby. Both of these are water based paints. Createx has many colors and finishes — metallics, pearls, candies, gloss, and matte. My Super Orbital Transport and my Red Nova were painted with Createx Pearl colors (White and Red). For the Super O.T., I mixed in a small amount of Createx Wicked Aluminum. This brings up another point. Don't mix brands if you want to create a custom color. While it might be OK, I personally try to avoid complications.
I've also used acrylic enamels akin to the Testors, ModelMaster, and Tamiya paints in hobby stores. I like them for scale replica kits. For example, missiles. There is a federal color standard (FS) — when it comes to standards, the government is full of it — for colors used on military equipment. With a little research, you can find the FS number for the actual color of the real thing and then you can cross reference it to the paints and paint your model true to form. Acrylic enamels are thinned with enamel thinner which is volatile and a solvent. It takes some real practice not to spray too heavy that you dissolve the prior paint layer down. Also, if masking for straight line detail, you need to be careful as well. The solvents can soften the adhesive and then, the paint seeps under at the interface. That's one of the problems with using most rattle cans when masking, the VOC dissolve the adhesive and then, when the masking is removed, the lines aren't sharp.
Another paint type I've used in my airbrushed is lacquer. I've really only used it on smooth surfaces when I truly needed a smooth glossy surface. Use only airbrush lacquers not the stuff available in the home supply stores unless you want to by yourself a new airbrush. Those will gum up the airbrush and cleaning it is a disaster. While I'm discussing lacquers, Google Alclad II Chrome. This is amazing paint. I have it and I have used it. It's pricey but near mirror finishes can be achieved with it. There are videos on YouTube demonstrating the application and results.
BTW, there are primers available for airbrushing. Badger, another airbrush manufacture, makes Stynylres SNR-401 primer. If you intend to airbrush, say, a body tube and a plastic nosecone, a good primer will make the colors appear the same on both. Plastic nosecones are a PITA (we all know that that means, right?). I've actually found that a base coat of a mixture of Stynylres and Createx UVLS Clear Top Coat (a urethane) sticks quite well. If any of you recall my Estes Astron Explorer, I did a two-color scheme on its nosecone which has lots of relief detail. I went through hell trying to paint it. Even with Tamiya tape, paint would get pulled from the plastic. After numerous duct tape removal sessions of already applied paint, I found the Stynylres and Createx UVLS Clear Top Coat mix. Also, as I'm including a photo of it, those are all Createx "pearl" colors on the Astron Explorer (Copper and Blue).
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Yes, he has some videos about cleaning and care. Pressure adjustment and paint consistency subjects were particularly useful to me when starting out. He loves Iwata brushes, and I recall a video comparing those vs cheapo brands (like I have). I do have duel action brushes at least, and they are fairly easy to clean.
I think he's in Australia mate!
I've used A few pearls and metallic paints, both Createx and other "craft" brand paint. Createx does finish up nicely, especially for the pearls I've tried. For more plain colors (non metallic or pearl), the others work fine and there are hundreds of colors. I do have to thin the metallics considerably, no matter which brand.
As for tape, none are perfect, but I prefer Frog Tape. The "delicate surface" yellow especially over recently painted surfaces, but no matter what, give at least 24hrs drying before taping over something. The only problem is that the stuff is very wide for many smaller applications.